X-Ufo selfmade frame

From UfoWiki

[edit] spare part for the Silverlit X-Ufo

Preface:

After many rough landings and crashes can it be that the plastic Cross X-Ufo his ministry acknowledged. Unfortunately, there is not a spare part, so the idea was born to replace it.

The goal was of simple and inexpensive materials with conventional tools to maximize light and reasonably stable framework. It is a "metal" and "plastic version" was the result.

I have started with the "metal version" and I finally made weight based on plastic transfers. Although the production looks pretty easy, but with 1-2 days time expected. Especially the recurring adjust the other parts of the total costs in some time.

Under comparison (with engine brackets):

	Original	Metall Version	Plastic Version
Cost	-	~14 Euro	~20 Euro
Weight	~50g	~80g	~63g

Material:

 * Board 16x10 cm
 * Balsa wood with 3 mm thickness
 * CFK 5,9 mm pipe(or aluminum)
 * aluminum U-rail 2 cm width
 * 8 plastic cylinder head bolts M3 (or metal)
 * 8 plastic nuts M3 (oder metal)
 * 4 cylinder head bolts M2
 * 4 nuts M2
 * 4 thick washers for M2, plastic
 * 2 paperclips 
 * Velcro band (and a little sewing kit)
 * some glue
 * piece of adhesive foam rubber

Used tools:

 * Drill with drill bits 1 mm, 1.5 mm, 2 mm, 3 mm
 * hacksaw
 * fretsaw with medium Saw blades for wood and metal as well as wood for fine
 * screwdriver
 * metal tongs
 * rasp for metal
 * medium-grain sandpaper
 * tape

Procedure:

Pick the draft: http://rapidshare.com/files/65283362/RahmenZeichnung.pdf.html

The Quadra tables basic forms of the two plates on the board to record.

First sawing the ground cover plate with the foliage saw with a metal blade.

The edges of the plates to saw. On the deck plate, the octagon for cable implementing record. The corners are simultaneously drill marks

The eight holes with a 1.5 or 2 mm drill drill. Anschliessend die Laubsäge durch eines der Löcher einfädeln und das Achteck aussägen. Then the fretsaw through one of the holes and sawing the octagon.

The octagon-cut centered on the bottom plate stick. For example, with superglue. Die Deckplatte sollte nun auf die Bodenplatte gelegt werden können, so dass das Ausgeschnittene direkt durch das Loch der Deckplatte passt. The top plate should now on the base plate can be placed so that the sawed part jump through the hole fits the deck plate.

Both boards put together and U-Schiene so it put it in a "corner" of the plates abschliesst. With the 3 mm drill the 4 holes in the U-rail and drill the boards, as two of the platinum Holder later on the deck plate sit. So while the drilling rail and not shift the plates, it can always be helpful after a hole with a M3-Schraube the things to fix. Then on the U-Schiene the markings on the record and saw off the first two brackets saw sinker. Sinker mounting number three and four can now adjusted drilled and sawed off. In all four brackets can sinker with a pair of pliers to projecting corners cutted. Beware! It may happen the aluminium parts flies all araound.

Sawing two pieces of the 3 mm wood and each stick together. It noted that the grain at 90 degrees! With the deck plate, the basic shape of the wooden track.

Saw the wood in a way that it is well on the base plate with the glued octagon sits. In a way that it is easy "to jam." The wood is 6 mm high, the boom only have a diameter of 5.9 mm. This latter later sitting pretty firmly, should work with the sandpaper around 0.1 mm demolished.

Bottom plate, wood filling and stacking deck plate. With a needle make marks for the holes in the wood. With a 3 mm wood borers can now arrange the holes drilled into the Balsa. Balsa is so soft that even without the machine with the drill in his hand succeed.

On the drilled wood now for the boom marks for cutting record. Dear slightly narrower than 5.9 mm drawing so you have the boom fixed without space.

With the fine wood blade on the hardwood saw the cuts for the boom from top to bottom sawing for a straight course between the drill holes to obtain.

In the bottom plate with a 1 mm drill 4 holes for the battery holder drilling. Paperclips bending and off.

Between base plate and paperclip has only a small gap remains for the velcro strap.

The Velcro band cut through the paper clips, and with a office tacker or needle and thread with the strap fastened. For a piece of foam rubber between the crop and paperclips stick around to protect the battery.

For a quick test you can now times all together. The press office brackets slightly in the wood.

To the 2 mm hole in the sinker holder to drill on board the best times, and then lay out the flags for the holes. Attention! I have used M2 cylinder head bolts to fasten. Perhaps it is more convenient to the holes with a 1.5 mm drill to set and later M2 sheet metal screws to use.

The boom in the aluminum or carbon tubes to saw. Every boom has 12.5 cm. For carbon, I saw the body with a piece of electrical tape and wrapped it marked with a pen. The tape also prevents a "fray" of the carbon during the saws.

The sinker holders may still be inside a piece removed. These transverse sawing a little bit and with the rest of the gun cut off.

Now the boom plug and the engine holder wishes. Now with a 1 mm drill the holes for the center bold drilling. In the middle of the best piece of the bottom plate. On the engine holder is the centering of the top set. Then remove again the boom and remove the bottom plate holes with a 1.5 mm drill size.

Now, all the parts together. Who wants to take out all frame parts and engine holder addition bonding. This increases the strength, but it could be more and worse fix damage in the event of a crash.

The framework makes normal flight manouver and loops (take-off weight 250g, so 50g battery). More emphasis is, however, always felt.

Rating:

The frame is a little harder and probably not as stable as the original. So he should be used only if the original is damaged. However, in order to be flown well priced much cheaper and can be a framework probably do not realize, especially when used much material remains for some spare parts. The insertion of the cable is in this framework is very simple, especially in comparison to the original framework.

Crash Behavior:

After a flight with approximately 10 to 15 km / h in a tree and followed the case from 4 m height on the ground in the recovery, has the frame behave as expected. The soft wood filling is destroyed and two boom by the center bold damaged (ripped out). The plastic screws and everything else are still intact. The damage is easy to repair.

Improvements:

Instead of the Velcro band can certainly holes for the original battery holder affixed. Alternatively with the mounting of two Alu-L-Parts on the ground, the potential securely in the battery from the Velcro tape prevented. The clip pieces could still something padded, to prevend a mark in the battery during a crash.

The attachment of the electronics with M2 bolts and nuts in the U-Stücken is a fairly tricky part. Presumably, it is easier to identify the holes in the sinker holders instead of 2 mm to 1.5 mm prefer to drill and M2 brass screws.